DIY Standing Desk

If you work at your desk all day without getting up and moving around regularly, you’re not doing your body any favors! In the last couple years, I’ve tried moving around more while on conference calls and sitting in different locations (which is really easy at home, but in our new collaboration spaces at work it’s super easy too). Last year, while in the office, I used one of the sit/stand desks. I was surprised that after using it for an hour in stand position, I was still standing without a desire to sit (from my feet or my brain). I felt more focused standing, and when my feet and back told me it was time for the chair, I did it long enough to feel rested and did more standing. I didn’t like that the sit/stand desk had no keyboard tray, but it did go pretty low, so it wasn’t an ergonomic disaster-just not quite optimal.

The next day, I started researching buying a desk for home and found it’s pretty easy to spend between $600-900. I’m a person that always likes to make things my own, whether that involves customizing them or building them. I started looking for options to build a desk from a frame, and it turns out a few companies offer their desks without the top for people like me. I searched quite a bit to find a desk that could handle a decent weight, had good reviews online, and more than a 90-day warranty. After a lot of searching, I found a deal on Amazon. It was the… It was on sale for $279 and had an extra 20% cash back. I ordered it Friday and it appeared Sunday morning! I wasn’t ready with a top, so I cut a bit off a piece of plywood in my leftover stack in the garage to use in the meantime.

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IKEA Top with four coats of wipe-on poly

For the top, I wanted to go big. My current desk in my home office was a standard computer desk, about 4 feet wide and 20 or so inches deep. Most the ones online offered a 30×60 size which sounded amazing. I wanted a nice clean look – something with some nice grain patterns, not dark. I found my local IKEA store sold an unfinished solid wood butcher block top. I put three coats of poly on it to make the wood colors pop without a glassy finish. It was simple to mount (like < 30 minutes) and then I just had to attach the controls to the front of the desk. I found a great standing pad that I stick under the desk when standing and it’s worked out great. I found generally I like to stand 2-4 times a day for 45-60 minutes. I think that’s a great compromise for an information worker and I think the look turned out great.

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Since the picture above, I 3D printed some cable management guides, mounted the power supply, and printed an under mount hook for my over the ear headphones (I call them the focus-phones)

Here are the parts I went with if you want to follow my path. The total for everything was under $400.

Raspberry Pi – Under Voltage or Temperature Issues

IMG_0423Step number one for ANY Raspberry Pi issue is “check the power supply”! Many issues on the Pi come from improper power; SD card corruption is a popular one. Often, people, including me, try to use an adapter with a Micro USB cable. Even if the adapter is rated for 5+ volts and 2.5A (for Pi 3), the quality or length of the cable might limit the power it can draw. For this reason, some people recommend a corded power supply, typically one from a “trusted source” like Adafruit. Despite using the “right” power supply on my two Model 3B devices, I was seeing under-voltage warnings (rainbow block) and at one point, a temperature warning. One was using an Adafruit supply and the other an iPad supply (both higher rated and with a nice thick cord). Both are in a cheap case I got from MicroCenter.

The software I was using had a menu system with some video on the screen, and it was consuming about 50–60% of a CPU core. I was seeing temps in the 77-79 range with some CPU throttling. It was curious to me that this activity was drawing so much on the power supply that I’d get an under-voltage warning. I removed all USB devices to be sure nothing other than the Pi was using the power. Even when I swapped the SD card, Pi, and power supply, it was pretty predictable that after about 15 minutes of use, I’d see the rainbow block.

I decided to run sysbench to see if a much higher CPU utilization (maxing out all four cores) would generate much more heat. Interestingly, while it did heat up more quickly, the top temps were about 83-85 with some significant throttling to keep the temps at bay. Again, the under-voltage warnings appeared. To me, it seemed like the heat was triggering the under-voltage warnings.

Sysbench:

sysbench –num-threads=8—test=cpu—cpu-max-prime=10000000000 run

Temp/Throttle Monitoring:

watch ‘(vcgencmd measure_temp; vcgencmd measure_clock arm) ‘

Next, I ran a test at a much lower CPU utilization, but covered up the case to build up the heat, and after about 10 minutes, I got the rainbow block again. I wouldn’t think these minor changes in temperature would affect the voltage draw, especially given the throttling. I picked up a pair of cheap stick-on “Addacore” CPU stick-on heat sinks (yeah, I said stick-on). I repeated the same experiments and they clearly did their job. I saw a consistent drop in temps of about 4-5 degrees, which is more than enough to prevent the throttling and the under-voltage warning (which I’m not sure I believe). Even the system bench test had much lower temps and less throttle.

OK, it’s 3M tape. I would not mount this Pi vertically because I suppose if it got warm enough gravity might have its way with this adhesive and ruin the board, but it’s working great. No more high temperatures or under-voltage warnings. While I’m tempted to remove one of them and repeat the experiment and measure the voltage from the Pi with a meter, I’m going to leave well enough alone.

Anyway, if you are seeing rainbow blocks, check your power, but also check your temps and try a heat sink:)